Tuesday, January 17, 2006

Day 17 - Out like a fat kid in dodgeball.

Day 17
We awoke in our terrace above Calibishie this morning, the sounds of soca and reggae finally having died. After breakfast we made off to Melleville hall airport to see what was waiting for us today. Nothing too surprising so far. The lady who was really reluctant to come to work on boxing day (another big party day here) to collect our car was not there. I felt really badly for another couple of guys who were looking to pick up their rental. They had been waiting since 8:30, we were there at 9:30. At 11:30 they were still waiting. We left our key with an airport official from Carribean Star airlines, and if he treats it anything like our luggage, Budget will not get their car key back. We are apprehensive to find out what they will charge us for the broken window of the last vehicle. We wished that Perdita (the lady) was there just so we could get a quote in person, but no such luck. Sounds like they will do what they want with our credit card. The dash we were waiting on for our connector through Barbados was inbound from Antigua, and was over an hour late. No surprise. We finally boarded when it rolled in and the flight was quick. We are now waiting in Barbados. The airport here is nice and expanding, but also no surprise, we had to sit on the floor to eat our lunch of processed food. They didn’t bother to put out any tables and chairs for the patrons. You can try not to make it look like an island in the Carribean, but at heart it always will be. Our luggage transferred fine, which is a surprise (so I lied, one surprise). We now wait to board our Air Canada flight and return to the frigid north.
After another delay we are underway. The most fantastic sunset I have ever witnessed blazed as we flew north. For the first time I saw a sunset not cut off by the horizon. It was breathtaking to see the top and bottom of it. Beams of copper and fluorescent orange rays blazed forth from the west, sandwiched between layers of fiery cloud. Puffy little clouds in its path left umbral and penumbral trails of shade behind them, fanning out toward us. The effect looked electronic, unreal. The scene was punctuated by a band of bright blue smeared across the sky above, where the setting sun had not yet spilt its blazing ink. As the sky darkens I sit here, listening to Alan Cross’ ongoing history of new music – part of the in flight entertainment. I don’t know what the topic is yet, but Chris Martin is softly singing Coldplay’s rendition of ‘Have Yourself a Merry Little Christmas’ in my ear. I can’t help but notice the technology I am saturated with here. I can’t help but think of ‘having’ and ‘not having’. It sounds sentimental, and it is – but the last two weeks have been eye opening, as I knew they would be. It is one thing to imagine people who are wanting, but it is another thing to see them. Growing up in a certain place is luck of the draw, one should never make the mistake of feeling superior because of what he or she was born into. Chris at Calibishie lodges told us a story last night. He explained the he had given a small Christmas gift to each of his employees the night before. His staff consists of only locals. The girls were touched. They confided that this was the first Christmas present they had ever received. Merry Christmas.

Day 16 - The whole island is drunk or hungover. These people love christmas. Well, drinking.



Day 16

Today is Christmas day. Left Laudat safely, and we motored into Roseau. We took a detour from the way straight back to Calibishie and headed to a place called Emerald Pool. We bought some things from the people selling various wares at the entrance. There were many tourists, as today was a cruise ship day and this is a quick easy stop for many. We purchased some carved faces out of fern trunks. I bought a colourful sarong and a simple t shirt with the flag on it. It was hard to find something not too touristy. I didn’t really want a shirt that said ‘we be jammin’ or Dominica, W.I. with a picture of a sisserou parrot or something on it. Tacky. Bob Marley wasn’t exactly a unique pick either, since they’re as common in Canada. We also bought a little carved bamboo case for jewellery as a gift. Emerald pool was scenic, if not filled with tourists. A waterfall spills from the jungle floor over a cliff into a perfectly clear green pool. Apparently many jungle scenes have been filmed here for various movies. . . one could see why. We left this place after being rejected by the jaded lady behind the snack counter. We asked her what smelled so delicious and she said ‘we makin some chicken’.
“Oh could we buy some of that?”
“Sorry mam, it’s not ready yet.” The girl sighed.
“Oh when will it be ready?” Asked my mom
“Not for a while – umm. . . yeah it’s goan be awhile.”
Realizing the chicken was a vain pursuit, I ordered a Fanta. As the girl turned around she muttered “Ohh Christmas tieredness, paty tiredness. . .” Understandably hung over from the night before. I am starting to think this entire island has an alcohol problem. Most people seem like they haven’t really sobered up from yesterday. The tunes are still blasting, and when the wind blows the right way up or down the valleys, you think you are literally next to a speaker, it’s uncanny. Also the fact that most men are polygynous here means that most families consist of something far from what we know as the nuclear family, with marriage being far from the norm. This along with hot weather facilitates being hammered on Christmas day, on the street, dancing. After the pool we made our way to Calibishie, via Sineku. We had a stop to make and a debt to pay. We pulled up outside a familiar ruins, concrete with no roof on the top floor, and arched doorways. The same pots and pans stood in the doorless doorway as before. My father recommended we drive on, as it appeared no one was home and there were a bunch of young thugs around Bethan’s age sitting on the back of a truck and under an awning of the shack next door. They were eyeing us like opportunists. I backed the car up and asked them if Hope was around. They affirmed he was and a couple of them yelled for him in unison. They said he was upstairs. From over the wall of the top floor Hope poked his head out, glistening with sweat. He disappeared again, and moments later appeared at the staircase leading down the side of the building. Hope recognized us immediately and made his way over to our car after taking a sip of water from a bucket nearby. We told him thank you for what he had done for us, and that we appreciated it. I shook his hand and discreetly slipped him $20 EC. He registered the transaction seamlessly and took it without a sign that he had it, lest the watchers see that he now had some money. Tears welled up in his eyes as he gripped my forearm, which was resting on the window frame of the car. He thanked us profusely and wished us a merry Christmas, vowing to find the rest of our things. We clunked fists with him, as is the customary greeting and show of respect here. We drove off feeling like we had paid a little back – something had been set right. We made our way into Calibishie, greeted the owners, grabbed a sandwich, and headed to the beach one last time. Some families were there, children playing in the surf, enjoying a quiet afternoon. After we returned we decorated a small 4 foot palm tree in our yard with some Christmas decorations we brought with us. It was the closest to a Christmas tree we’ll get this Christmas. We got some good close ups and a family photo next to it. We have only now to eat dinner and pack. Tomorrow it is off to Melleville hall airport for the close of our trip. Not that things are over – far from it. The way things run here I’m sure there will be a page to write about us trying to get to Barbados to connect with our flight home. 3 hour stop over. . . I hope that’s enough time for all the technicalities to sort themselves out. If things there run anything like here, we might wish the stopover was 6 hours. . .
Soon it is back to deep snow and solid ice. What an adventure this has been.

Day 15 - Christmas Eve


Day 15

It is Christmas eve, but you wouldn’t know it. After breakfast we bumped down the mountain into Roseau. We visited the market and then continued through along the coast to the dead south end of the island. The road literally ends here, and the name of the place is Scots Head. The island ends here in a narrow spit, which rises back up to a ragged peak about 500 feet high. On the left side of the 20 foot wide spit, when facing the sea, you see the atlantic, frothy with big rollers. On the right is the Caribbean sea. Calm, and impossibly green and blue. It is strange to see the two so close together, and to see their different temperaments. Snorkelling here proved to be the best yet. The water was as clear as any I’ve ever witnessed, cleaner than what you would find in an aquarium. Metallic and fluorescent fish, alone and in schools, surround swimmers here. It is amazing how many organisms can change colour in this underwater garden, and what a palette they have to work with. . . Many urchins, flounder, swordfish and tuna inhabited the anemone and coral-rich reef. The bay was teeming with life – my mother even reported a sea turtle, which I did not have the good fortune to see. We spent the day here, and as the sun hung lower in the sky we navigated the tight and loud ghettos, now rife with staggering drunks, some getting into cars. We made it through the city and back to our cold mountain home without incident. Merry Christmas. Tonight there is some sort of Chicken bake for dinner, which is hopefully good, and I am pondering the idea of decorating some local tree. . .Also, we had heard that although Laudat, the country’s highest village (in which we now reside) was fairly safe, there was one incident recently. Yesterday we found out it was a murder. Yikes. Today we found out the victim was a tourist. Awesome. Merry Christmas.

Day 14 - That lake was actually boiling, and Satan owns real estate in Dominica.


Day 14

Someone stole my dad’s shoes. Well actually we know who did it. So do you. Turns out he stole part of his vacation too. So this morning my mom, Simon our guide, and I left for the boiling lake. There was no way Pap could go with his lack of good shoes, as the inserts that were in the shoes keep him from wrecking his knees on climbs. We took the shortcut out to titou gorge, along the pipelines as we did at the end of the day Bethan went to court. Here we began our ascent. The gorge is at 550m, and the hiking was through dark wet jungle, on swampy steps made of fern trunk. It is amazing that a fern can make a trunk thick enough to build steps, but it makes ideal ones, as the porous and fibrous outer layer makes for great grip. The climb was gentle for the first 200 vertical metres, until we crossed the breakfast river. The river flows through a gorge that gets progressively deeper and runs right underneath the aerial tram. This is where the ascent gets steep. Until we reached the pinnacle at 945 m we climbed near vertical stairs. It would have been as easy to use hands and feet. As we approached the exposed summit, clouds and wind buffeted us as though the wind was going to lift us and blow us far into the valley below. The stairs continued here, as the surrounding earthy mountains exposed their ruddy color. We descended, and every glimpse we could see over the ridge next to us gave us a closer look at the impending valley of desolation. The valley presents a satanic scene. Steeped in sharply rising peaks, the valley is a rainbow of bright yellows, browns, greys and reds. Boiling hot streams of sulphurous water surrounded us. Streams crossed every which way, some of which we had to ford. It was exciting crossing the streams with the added risk of a bad burn on top of the usual soaker. Hot gases escaped from the earth all around us, some rushing so quickly they whined like hairdryers and car engines, each with its own intonation. Some of them spat hot water along with the high pressure steam that escaped from them. We crossed through the sulphurous, stench ridden valley with careful steps, and the trail wound through another section of forest with bright milky blue water running around bright red rocks. We ascended up to the lake, whose ominous steam was a telltale sign that it was not far yet. As we crested the ridge we could see the rim of the lake. We walked closer and then peered right in. The lake is about 4 or 5 acres surrounded by vertical walls. A couple of small streams feed into the lake. The view of what is going on is generally obscured by the plumes of hot steam rising from the lake. When the wind blows hard in the right direction the stem flees in all directions but the one against the wind, collides with the walls and slides rapidly up, curling majestically into the sky to blend with the surrounding clouds blowing overhead. At times like these the lake is revealed. Half an acre, round, in the centre is at a rolling boil. Sulphurous gas escapes, hot enough to feel when the wind blows in the right direction. We could feel the acidic sting in our eyes and throats as we were pelted with it. Here we had our lunch and made our way back down. The way down was shorter, but seemed longer, as our legs were starting to feel like jelly. A small eternity later, we exited at titou gorge. I am thankful that rain and wind pelted us through our entire hike, because the sun would have been much less lenient with us. It’s time for a drink and some relaxation.
On a positive note, our brakes are fixed. Mr. Roc (or Rock, I don’t know) - inheritor and current owner of the lodge, is a sage 53 year old local. He is quiet but confidently opinionated when he speaks. He seems like a fair, open minded strong man. He spends most of his time passing back and forth, in the background, working on things that need working on, but mostly watching the tv in the nook in the corner of the dining hall. When one talks to Mr. Roc, one learns a lot. He has traveled all over the world, and he is well educated and well thought on the situation of the country. He also knows how shit works around here. We feared that we should cancel our hike this morning, since tomorrow is Christmas eve, and we thought Budget rent a car was closed. In lieu of our brake pad situation it was apparent that we need a replacement soon. On our return we learned the problem was fixed. Mr. Roc got on his cell phone with Budget and asserted “I have a customer that rented a car from you, the brakes don’t work. Get up here and fix it.” 20 minutes later a tow truck with equipment came. A mechanic jacked the car up, new pads were installed, problem solved. If only we knew that the way to get things done in Dominica was to be a jerk to the seemingly nice folk, we would’ve gotten a lot more done a lot sooner!

On the note of Christmas. I try to remember every day that Christmas is approaching. That the eve is tomorrow, but even though I know it, I just don’t believe it. There’s no snow, and the Christmas ring tones on everyone’s phones seem just as ridiculous and irreverent as the decorations and fake Christmas trees that are standing all around this country. We will see how things go tomorrow. We’ll find the most appropriately comical tree we can to hang out decorations on.

Day 13 - So if you've been robbed twice, what else can happen? Your transport can start making funny noises.


Day 13

Last night the wind and rain picked up, and half the island’s power went out. It was actually kind of comical. The power was out until after we went to bed. Luckily Roxy’s uses a propane powered kitchen, so hot food was not an issue – but light was. It was funny to see the servers in the kitchen moving back and forth with my headlamps on. Today we headed around the corner and through the bush to check out the aerial tram. This operation is run by a Canadian who installed a ski lift and modified it to run 8 person trams up the mountainside up through the forest canopy. It was interesting to see the plants from this new high perspective – it made for some good aerial photos. We then headed to Middleham falls, a 45 minute hike up and down steep sets of stairs through the jungle which comes out at the falls. The falls fire out of the top of a cliff and fall 300 feet before being dashed off of a steep rock face and plunging with high pressure into a pool below. It was spectacular. We walked back out and drove back to our abode. The newest issue is our car, or 'transport' as the locals refer to it. Right now our right front disc pad is worn down to the metal, and the wheel has been making an increasingly loud ridiculous screeching. The wheel sounds like Godzilla being impaled by a rusty spike dipped in vinegar. Before it only occurred when we applied the brakes, and now it has worn itself down to the shoe, such that the screech is incessant, whether the brakes are on or not. It’s kind of funny, but not so much as it is annoying. Especially since we need to drive to the budget rental AGAIN to replace our car. The guy who told us last time that the broken window was our problem and he didn’t ‘care what the fuck we did’ is probably going to be pretty excited to see us. My guess is he is baking a cake in anticipation of our arrival. Tomorrow is the boiling lake hike, so we won’t need it then, as the trailhead is in walking distance, but the day after. . .

Day 12 - I looked into a dragon's mouth. He had awful breath.


Day 12

Sheepishly I woke up - and today was normal. Finally. We drove up from the village here into the clouds. At 845m of elevation we stepped out to witness the stunted jungle plants growing up here. A culvert ran along the concrete road, its contents being contributed to at intervals by hot water rushing out of the volcanic cliffsides. The cliffs were stained bright rusty orange, like 70’s plateware coated with uranium based paint. The stain is likely caused by minerals dissolved in the hot water as it shoots up through the earth’s crust, which then come out of solution as the water cools on the surface. We hiked the trail in from here and 45 minutes later came out at Boeri lake. The scenery here has a strange Appalachian like quality. It is surrounded by mountain peaks which do not seem so high because we are near their top. Each peak’s ruggedness is disguised by the foliage which clings to all faces but the most daunting overhangs, and the low cloud cover and short plants made the lake look like it belonged somewhere in northern Quebec. After we hiked back out of the clouds, we continued down to Trafalgar falls, the highest waterfall we witnessed yet. I clambered over the huge slippery boulders to the foot of the phenomenon. The falls crashed into a pool here, with such force from over 100 feet up that wind rushed past my ears and mist soaked my clothes. As we hiked back out from Trafalgar, the incessant rain which had started recently continued its onslaught, and did so until now. Thankfully this was accompanied by sunshine, as usual. On the way out we followed a sign that caught our eye to some Sulphur springs. The springs were spectacular. It was unfortunate that an Amercian man and his girlfriend bought up the property on which the springs can be found, and will in January begin charging people to see them. We walked around the large complex that he was building out of bamboo and mortared stones. Pathways had been lain, changing and eating facilities, staircases were all being built. We could see he would make millions from the people coming in on Cruise ships with his sulphur spa hotel. The saddest part was the young man trying to make a living under a bamboo shelter at the foot of the American’s driveway by selling packets of sulphur cream: simply mud that he’d packaged with labelling from the sulphur pool. My mother bought one. He knew it was only a matter of time before he would be ousted from his place of business. We clambered to the back of the property down the steps which were being built, and saw the most impressive sulphur spring of all. In the earth, on the hillside, the volcanic activity of this area had blasted out a metre wide and 3 metre deep cave. The rim of the ccave was all shades of red, green and orange, and on the roof (on top) of the cave, there was no more grass, just short columns of sulphur formed over time by stem curling out and around the mouth. From inside the cave came a pounding bass the hot sulfide gases escaped – shooting violently up through the water which lined the caves floor, and slamming the entire grey solution into the ceiling of the cave with such force that spray shot out to the 10 feet away that we were standing. The water was blazing hot, it was amazing to witness the power of the earth here. On the way out I paused on the the unfinished floor of the foundation of one of the American’s buildings. I ‘hosed’ it down for him. My small contribution. We left this place and drove the steep roads and the tight switchbacks right through the town of Wotten-Waven, and doubled back up the mountain side to our Laudatian abode. On the way home I got some shots (which I hope turn out well) of the sky opening over the ocean, and sunbeams flooding through the porthole as if god herself was trying to point out the location of some sacred spot on the sea. The treefrogs are out around this wet place as dusk settles.

Day 11 - Justice? You be the judge.


Day 11

Time, spent. Today needs its own book.

Today I was awoken again. Rudely. This time it was not a rooster. It was first tables being shoved around on tile floors at 6 in the morning, and then the twilight of my curtained wood and tile room pierced by the bleating of an incessant sheep that sounded like it had been dared by the other sheep to stand outside my window and make noise. I laughed at the irony of the situation, because my last thoughts when I went to sleep were “what could possibly wake me up here?” I could not get back to sleep, listen and you’ll find out why. Now we sit here, watching a blood red and azure sky blaze goodbye to the sinking sun, with mixed feelings about what we have accomplished today. I sit and think: “was it worth it?”. The sentence is pregnant with triple, quadruple, quintuple meaning. Now I will go back in time, Tarantino style (Dane Cook style), and when I get to the end you will know why, and you too will ask yourself “Was it worth it?” After the rude sheep got paid off for taking the dare, I was stirred earlier than expected by my father. He told me he had bad news, that the police had called and that we were required to attend the hearing for the car break in. We sped down the mountain road from Laudat toward Roseau after a delayed breakfast, attempting to make the 9:00 hearing on time. We navigated through the hot, busy one way streets, a far cry from the cold, rain torrent plagued heights of Laudat. We arrived, on shaky directions, at the cream building labeled “High court of Justice”. Along the side of the building flanked by a dirty alleyway was a cream stucco wall, with two doorways into the building labeled “Court No. 1 and 2”, respectively. The doors opened at 9:15, and we walked in. We spent the morning watching the proceedings. First, 20 young black men shuffled up to the defendant’s stand, and shuffled back away, all after the same conversation. Some with shoes, some without, some with beards some without, some with grey hair, some without. The judge would ask them if they had someone to bail them out, and each has his own reply. Some said no, some tried to bail themselves out, unsuccessfully, some said yes but had no one to bail them out, and one man’s partner showed up but did not have the money. 10,000 EC dollars is not a small amount. The next was disturbing. For the next couple of hours, while we sat and listened, we watched a rape case unfold. A 15 year old girl described in detail her raping by a much older male, one who had family ties with her. The disturbing story was told and told again by the girl, repeated back by the judge, who functioned also as her own stenographer in the hot, run down court room. We sat behind a rickety gated fence made of flakily painted two by fours. We sat, sore assed, on wooden benches, watching the magistrate/judge attempt to serve justice. The six wobbly ceiling fans were all that were keeping sanity in check as the judge urged the girl on the stand to be concise with her answers. We sat until 12:30 and listened to this case, shocked at our own surroundings.
At 1:00 our case began. Bethan, one of the perpetrators, was brought onto the defendant’s stand. My father was called up to deliver his testimony, to describe in detail the events of the day up to and after the point of the break in. Bethan was asked by the judge if he had any questions for my father, as the legal proceedings in this country reqire the defendant to have the right of cross-examining the plaintiff. He barely understood the judges repeated efforts to get him to exercise this right, and the case moved on. After the Prosecutor finished asking the questions, my father was dismissed from the stand. The next phase of the trial required the officer that worked out of the station just outside Sineku to deliver his report. He took the stand, swore his oath, and began to orate the events of the case. He described our pulling up to the station with the damaged vehicle, his trip back to Sineku, his apprehension in the middle of the night of the sleeping Bethan, and Bethan’s leading him to the woods after admitting that he took the bag. Bethan, however, maintained that he found our vehicle with a broken window, and that he simply pulled the bag from the roof of the car. The officer did not believe a word of it, and made it known. After he delivered his testimony, the judge asked Bethan again if he had any questions. Bethan was as dumbfounded as before. He then gave Bethan three choices. 1) Remain silent. 2) Give his defense. 3) Be Cross examined by the Prosecutor. He chose to remain on his stand. The judge read him, for the third time, his three charges. The officer, George, now a good friend of ours, had charged Bethan 3 times, in order to give him three chances to confess. Bethan maintained that he’d found the empty bag, as stated, but the fact remained that he’d hidden it in the woods, and the officers had to wake him up at night to get it. The judge repeated these things to Bethan, and told him clearly that she didn’t believe a word of his story, on account of his hiding the bag. Why would he hide it if he didn’t break into the car? What made him think the police would be after him for it? We got goose bumps as we watched the judge callously tell him what she thought about the whole thing, and prepare to coldly hand out the sentence. She told him that tourism is the foundation that Dominica rests on, and that to commit crimes against others, especially tourists, was something she abhorred. My Goosebumps melted as my blood boiled when I saw the judge wave a pink piece of paper at him.
“And it has come to my attention, Mr. Bethan, that the last three offenses you have been charged with were all also against tourists. Including badgering, harassment, and theft.”
“This is why,” she continued “I think you are telling fibs, and I don’t believe a word of your story. Now if you can tell me one reason why I shouldn’t send you to jail then tell me now.”
Befan had no reply but the lie he’d been telling all along.
The judge handed out the sentence. “For the charge of the theft of the backpack, you will serve a sentence of two years. Do you understand the charges Mr. Bethan?” He swallowed and nodded. “For the charge of the theft of the shoes and watch you will serve a second sentence of two years, do you understand the charges Mr. Bethan?” We watched with mixed feelings as Bethan nodded again, looking up at the ceiling - now tears welling up in eyes that had thus far shown no emotion. “For the charge of malicious damage to the window of the car you will serve another 6 months. These three sentences are to be served consecutively, that is you will serve the first of two years, the second of two years, and the third of six months, all in a row with now pause. Do you understand the charges Mr. Bethan?” He accepted with an imperceptible nod of his head, now emotionally detached from his surroundings. The court adjourned, and we had tears in our eyes too. We could not believe a boy of 24, the same age as I, could be put away for so long – could make such a big mistake. The only time I felt like I backed this harsh punishment is when I thought back to his previous offenses. I thought of how I was a victim, a target, not safe because I was from Canada. I felt like I wanted to strangle him. I thought of what I would say to him when the court adjourned. The words “Have a nice nap” were all that came to my mind and floated around in my head, awkwardly dominating all that I was thinking. The judge made him face us and apologize, and through his lying eyes he told us he was sorry. I wanted to believe him, and because I tried so hard I kept my mouth shut when the officers escorted him past our bench, out of the court room. The court adjourned, and we thanked the judge and George, our officer, heartily. We walked out of the courtroom at 3:30 – emotionally drained and thinking about freedom. When you see these things happen first hand, and witness the lengths the upholders of the law must go through to serve justice, this is the kind of thing you think about. When you find out that Nock, his accomplice, being tried at the same time in Court no. 1, also got 4 years, and how Bethan will walk out of jail – again – when he is almost 29, a critical period in his life completely over, taken away, like a mini death sentence that he gets to regret afterward, you wonder one thing. Was it worth it? In order of importance, from z to a: Was it worth sacrificing a day of my vacation for this? We have precious days to spend in a place we will never see again. We have spent hours at two separate police stations. Now Bethan has stolen the worst possible thing other than our sense of security here: He has stolen a whole day of our experiences together. Was it worth Coming to the court for this, would he not have been sentenced in our absence? Of course, but the sentence may not have been so harsh. The judge wanted us there so we could witness the example, and know how important we are to Dominica as tourists. We now see. Was it worth smashing a car window, and lying about some petty items, to waste some of the most influential and important years of your life rotting in a prison cell? Was it worth giving him 4.5 years, will he change, learn? Was it worth it? That is what I wonder now. I tell myself by going to the police and showing up to court, I reciprocated the effort Dominica put in for us. By testifying we helped take one more threat off of the streets of this struggling country. This a small contribution, we are aware of that, but it’s the biggest one we could make. It was worth it.

Day 10 - Journey to Laudat, where it's . . .cold? (I'm - Ron - Burgundy?)





Day 10

Dominica has cold places. We left Calibishie lodges this morning, and Chris and Linda were sad to see us go. No worry, we will see them again once before we leave, as we are heading back to calibishie before we leave – for one night. Today we made our way through a road which cuts diagonally across the south part of the island. Known simpy as the “jungle road” to us storytelling folk at Calibishi lodges, we have been looking forward to it. The road is narrow, even compared to the rest of the island, but the rain gutters are a minimum, and there is usually good visibility around turns. We made our way through the thick of the island foliage toward the town the capital of Roseau. We then left the busy one way streets of the capital up an even narrower steep mountain road to the jungle village of Laudat. We are staying at a place called Roxy’s mountain lodge. The lodge looks grimy from far away, much of the stucco having flaked off to reveal concrete beneath. This was a guise for the close up look. We walked up the steps to a roofed patio at the front of the building, lined with shiny tile and walled with stone on 2 sides. Tables made of one solid piece of tree trunk, with bark on either side matched the woven chairs nicely. Open doorways into the foyer welcomed us as visitors, where the tile continued beneath high ceilings. We were told later that this place had been absolutely decimated by the last hurricane, and so is being rebuilt out of solid concrete, as many of the upscale structures here are. We are now at around 1900 feet, and it is noticeable. The clouds that we have observed dragging themselves over and around the distant peaks now fly quickly over our heads, dumping unpredictable cargos of rain on us whenever the wind is right. The air is cooler here, and more of the thick trunked ferns dominate the landscape than the lazy palms of the lowlands. Our place is nestled between distant peaks which rise, densely wooded with no sign of cliffs (though we know they are in there) up to the sky. The sun shines as often as the rain falls here, and both often happen together. We took an evening walk up the steep mountain roads and were greeted with a fantastic display orange sunbeams fanning out from behind a low flying cloud as the sun set into the silver sea. This marks the beginning of the hiking portion of our adventure, which promises rain, mud, warm and cold pools, and refreshingly colder air.

Day 9 - Anyone got yogourt? My back has a pulse.



Day 9

It was bound to happen – the white boy got a sunburn. I can feel my freakin pulse in my back . . . I thought I was being diligent. Today we went to a beach at a place called Woodford Hill. The beach was crushed coral sand flanked by ruddy red cliffs. The blue sea charged suicidally at the bluffs in the distance, the ocean floor slope being just right to cause the breakers to crash first on their left, then continually along the cliff until the length of the wave was spent, spray kicking up as though an invisible firing squad was releasing a volley of ammunition from left to right, incessantly beating the cliffs to silt. We met up with our german friends and spent the morning with them, enjoying the sun, the sand, and the colour of the water. Many local parents bring their families here, to hold barbecues, games of cricket, or simply to watch their kids play in the water. The scene was what one might imagine as stereotypical of coastal Africa, the chocolatey skin of the frolicking children contrasting strikingly with the electric blue and green waters they were splashing in, as they danced carelessly through the surf. The locals certainly are more fit for the hot sun than we north Americans are. I spent just a little too much time splashing around in my gear, looking always at the ocean floor and not thinking about the sun on my back, but such is life here. We retired to Calibishie early and met up with an American couple here, we talked for hours about Dominica’s teetering political situation. They also kindly offered to give my dad a pair of shoes that were too small for Tim, the hisband. We tried them and they fit reasonably well, so now he has shoes to hike in. It is nice to receive help when you need it. We dined this evening with an older couple from Cornwall, UK. We had a blast exchanging stories and talking about travel. Calibishie has a nice atmosphere, where people ask to join you over dinner, and you can meet plenty of interesting folk.

Day 7 - L'escalier Tete Chien made me Hope they Nock Bethan's Face in - seriously that is an amazing pun, read on.


Day 7

Trouble in paradise. The first roberry added to the sense of adventure on this vacation, which was the upside of the situation when we ignored the 1500 or so dollars we lost on it. Now things are starting to get ridiculous. This morning we set out for the Carib territory, which is the reservation that the true natives of this island live on. The Caribs are a people that moved here from south America long ago, and it is evident in their features. They are lighter in complexion. And their eyes have a strangely asian quality. They certainly do not share the recent African decent of the rest of the population. After witnessing a spectacular waterfall which plunges straight into the ocean, we stepped back and headed through the winding stone road between wall-less thatched roof huts back to the car. We drove along the coastal road until we reached our next destination: Escalier de Tete Chien. This feature is a lava tube which hardened while cascading into the ocean, so it has a step like quality which descends into the furous blue sea below. The tube has the winding quality of a boa constrictor, which is where it got it’s name. The local creole refers to a snake as ‘lal tete chien’, which is French for ‘Dog’s head’. Why the snake bears a resemblance to a dog’s head, and why it is so called in French Patois is beyond me. When we arrived, we simply pulled over and parked on the side of the road, which invariably is in front of someone’s dwelling. We were stopped in front of a an old roofless, windowless, and doorless concrete building, with arched doorways. In the doorway stood a small aluminum pot, on the floor next to a bucket. This was the modest home of a man named Hope. An old wrinkled man who was obviously well beyond his years in appearance, wearing tattered clothes, whith skin so dark it almost had a purple sheen, and the ropy veiny build common to almost all the men in these villages. Hope offered to watch our car, and we told him (honestly) that we did not have any money for him, as we had forgotten our wallets at our accommodation. He smiled and told us it was alright, he would take charge of it nonetheless. We thanked him and headed down to the jungle and meadow path to the stairway. We spent 45 minutes or so exploring it, and watching the violent sea smash into the tortured rock angrily, only to languidly slide its foam backwards off the rocks into the turquoise water. After we climbed back out to the car, I saw hope sitting on the path. I thanked him for watching the car, and he walked with me back, talking of how it was good to have someone watch it in light of the risk of break ins. He told me sometimes they just smash the glass, with no qualms. I shook my head. My parents caught up and we prepared to get into our car after thanking Hope again. That’s when pap exclaimed that there was glass everywhere over on his side of the car. “Yeah” I replied, seeing different shades of the same little crystalline squares where I was standing. “Oh my god, someone broke the window out.”
We looked inside the car, one backpack was missing. My Father’s. The thief had emptied it, and taken only the pack. He also took the hiking shoes pap had in the car. My parents were so upset trying to get to the bottom, asking “you must know who did this, someone must have seen it.” That eventually it seemed like half the village was crowded around us, there on the hot street.. Palm trees swaying in the breeze, tall women staring quietly, little children shyly clinging to their legs observing us from the security of their mothers. Hope pointed to an old man who said he had seen the act, and eventually we decided on driving to the police station with Hope in our car. The police, as last time (although this time it was a different force on the other side of the island) were genuinely disappointed and apologetic. An officer was dispatched, who returned with one suspect in custody. His name was Nock. Nock was a young man, my age, dressed like a gangster. He was one of the poor souls in the youth of this island who are going to take it in the wrong direction. He was just released from jail, and as his first order of business as a released criminal was to return to his previous occupation. Looking into his eyes as the officer escorted him from the pickup up the steps of the station, I saw a kid who didn’t care because he had no reason to. There is a political division on this island between those who see the great picture of the impact tourism has on the island, ie the single greatest source of sustainable income they have, and those who simply want to make a quick buck at any expense. Nock will be held for 72 hours maximum without charges, and the police are after Bethan, his accomplice. The officer promised he would return our bag to us, but we know chances are slim. Bethan is hiding, and he will sell the items when we leave the country. This is a downward cycle in an unstable economy, and unless Dominica makes some great changes to the infrastructure of its social system, and educates its people with an awareness of their place in the world, the drug trade which is just starting to take root will mushroom out of control, as it has on most other Carribean islands. This is only a small taste of what is to come here. Being robbed twice in 3 days does not make for good tourism. Along with the money and items they stole, they took our sense of security and our desire to be here.

Day 6 - Johnny Dep Has Stayed Here. Butt pirates of the Carribean.



Day 6

Today we drove up to a trail which lead to a waterfall known as syndicate falls. The trail lies in the shadow of Morne Diablotin, and so receives abundant relief precipitation when the wind is right. We drove through higher altitude pineapple fields nestled in banana plantations, and along the way witnessed lots of fruits we had not seen growing here yet. We passed a fruiting mango tree (rare since they are out of season). After taking a wrong turn down the right dirt/mud/chuckhole road instead of the left one, I had the chance to witness many more plants as I reversed. In my familiarization with the foliage I noticed Starfruit, figs, papaya, grapefruit, a strange red flower that a customary Christmas drink is made from . . . not bad for reversing through 30 feet of bush. On the hike in to our trail we also found a huge avocado, which we made short work of, it was delicious. The hike into syndicate falls was entertaining. It is amazing what scale things grow to here. The ferns grow into literal trees here. They are often 30-40 feet high, and sometimes form the sole canopy. Their woody stalks could actually be considered lumber, and the rough bark at their base makes sections of grippy fern trunks ideal steps for jungle straircases on muddy trails. The trail snaked across several streams, which we adventurously forded. We ended up looking at a spectacular waterfall cascading down a jungle cliff in the middle of the woods. The water shot off of a ridge 60 feet up and slammed into a deep blue pool surrounded by orange silty rocks. Spectacular. Later we visited a beach known locally as #1 beach, where some scenes from Pirates of the Carribean were filmed. (Chris informed us that Johnny Dep and Elijah wood have actually both stayed at this lodge, along with numerous other cast members) The beach has sand which is volcanic in origin, and is as such black as tar. We occupied ourselves braving the rough waves for a short time, and then learning how to prize coconuts from unwilling palm trees for an hour or so. It is incredible how much liquid these vessels can hold. More than one can comfortably drink in a sitting. There is no need to go hungry in these places, especially if one is handy with a pole of bamboo such as those that abound here. To add to the excitement of our day, we saw about 5 or six parrots (which are rare and endangered here) of the Jaco type. The national bird is the other; the sisserou. We hope to come across these as well.

Day 5 - we was ROBBED. . .


Day 5

Eventful Day. We began with a drive to a hike. The hike was to take us to a swimming hole in the jungle. When we arrived at the entrance to the road to the trailhead, we ran into a german couple that is staying here at Calibishie, and they had hired a guide. A guy named Wendy. That is not a typo. We were lucky to have someone to follow into this trail, as we would have quickly given up on our own. Driving up the steeps up the mountainside took us through a remote village. We snaked through its centre following the patchwork of potholes and hardened tar. We stopped to ask a local woman which way to go at the many forks - “Up, go up. You only go up” was her reply. Up we went. The road quickly deteriorated into a cart track, flanked by grass and banana trees we could sometimes not see over. The plants assaulted both sides of our car, as we tried to shift our suzuki’s path left and right to avoid having the strewn boulders collide with our undercarriage, which did happen a few times. At the trail head, Wendy led us through high tropical pastures and banana plantations. On one side the ocean could be seen between the wedges formed by steep mountain hillsides. On the other, Morne Diablotin – the island’s tallest peak – could be seen up to its neck, it’s misty peak shrouded in cloud. Wendy led us into the steamy jungle, stopping intermittently to show us some native fruit or useful tree. Hearing about the Carib culture, the uses of the plants, and witnessing their interdependence firsthand brought a sense of familiarity with the rest of the earth, as the same story is told all over the planet, only the languages, plants, and people are different. As we stared, rapt, up the trunk of a goumiere tree, we noted its top at around 60 feet. The trunk was as thick as an old Canadian beech. We were flabbergasted to find out it only took 10 years to get this way. The Caribs would hollow out it’s trunk to make dug out canoes, and would burn its pitch, which smelled exactly like pine sap, as ceremonial incense. The tree did not look remotely like an evergreen, but the sap was apparently high in terpenes. At the end of the hike, we hopped over some boulders to cross some fast streams and small rivers. We rouned a cliffy bend and were greeted by a beautiful waterfall crashing into a deep blue and green pool. Wendy encouraged me to jump the cliff I came across as I climbed up to explore the pool, and I obliged, 5 or 6 times. After walking and driving back out, we decided to visit Batibou beach. This is a secluded paradise where 4x4 is required to access. The beach is exactly what you imagine a deserted island beach to look like. White sand, green blue water, coral reef in the distance, palm trees bending lazily over the shore, casting their shadow down, and not a soul in sight. The green foamy waves are free to crash upon ochre cliffs undisturbed. I snorkeled and my parents walked, and upon our return to our belongings the impossible had happened. Someone had made their way down the muddy rock path in, or through the jungle, and had found my father’s camcorder and his wallet. They had taken all the money out of the latter, and stolen the former. We couldn’t believe this was possible in such a secluded place. It would take 25 or 20 minutes to get in if you knew the way well, and you were on foot. The thief’s timing was impeccable. After this the owner of the property and some surrounding places came down and greeted us. One of the men with him had seen a known thief walking in our direction earlier that day, the owner took the description and signed the paper, handing it to us and urging us to go to the Calibishie police, which we did. After passing the station 4 times, first not recognizing it as a station, and later trying to find a good place to stop and turn around to get the right angle to enter the driveway (it was a 1 foot drop to a rutty dirt path, up to a small brick building with doorless doorways and windowless windows) we eventually made it. The officer eagerly took the description and dispatched one of the police. It was nice to see them at least try to help, even if the prognosis was not good. Hopefully Pato, the suspect, will be found with the camera, the police having been on his trail within hours, unbeknownst to him. I look forward to meeting him, as we were told a confrontation would be necessary for us to identify our things. I think the laws here will work in our favour if he is caught. Punishment for many small things includeds jailtime. Personally I would like to just sit down and tell him a few things about stealing, and then maybe cane him myself. I doubt that is allowed though. . .

On the walk out I found this really wierd looking seed. I thought at first it must be a bead, because of how brilliantly coloured it is - glossy black juxtaposed with blood red. It's known as a precatory bean. Turns our it's one of the world's deadliest seeds. Maybe I could feed it to Pato?

Day 4 - What the hell is a soursop?



Day 4

Another azure ceiling to a punishingly hot day. We drove to the capital – Roseau – today. It took a couple of hours, and the driving in the city was cutthroat. Though the locals are quite tolerant drivers, giving and answering honks always in a friendly context with smiles, you must be prepared to brave straddling a raingutter with your axle to accommodate oncoming lorries in lieu of a car parked in one lane of a 1.5 lane road. To add to the excitement, children and adults dart between and from behind parked and moving vehicles, each with his or her own agenda, and none in a hurry to get out of anyone’s way. Such is island life. In some places in the city, formed concrete drainage culverts slope through the jungle into the town, and continue defiantly right over the road into the ocean. This means that in addition to the speed humps which punctuate the beginning, middle and end of residential areas, there are the inverted cousins of these obstacles – the culvert – a foot deep and the length of the suzuki’s wheelbase, to add to the fun. The pavement simply takes on the form of its concrete neighbour in these places. A stop in the populated and tourist driven Anchorage led us to check the local dive shop to see about snorkeling gear. We picked up a snorkel, flippers and a mask and proceeded to drive the 15 minutes down the road to the aptly named champagne beach. I explored shorebound boulders which were teeming with coral and other undersea life. Like it’s terranean counterpart, this underwater jungle was steeped in competition and interdependence. Thousands of species could be spotted in one short hour of swimming. Sea urchins, beautiful and strangely shaped fish, sponges and coral abound here. A short distance up the coast I encountered first one, and then many streams of bubbles rushing out of fissures in the rock. Along with the omnipotent and eerie sound of underwater ‘cooking’ surrounding me, the shimmer of hot water near the holes in the sea floor were a sure sign that I had found the underwater sea vents that give champagne its name. Simply an incredible thing to witness. On the way home we hauled ass, learning to drive more like locals. Enjoying the show the villagers provide of the most unsafe and daring passes in traffic of all time. Jousting head on with huge Mercedes trucks while speeding up hill and around cliff lined corners. We arrived at Calibishi after sunset. This evening I had the pleasure of eating the strangest fruit I have ever tasted: the soursop. The Soursop is an oblong fruit, the size of a large nerf football. It has a green, soft-thorn covered skin, which when ripe feels so soft as to appear rotten. This softness is indicative of the inside of the fruit. A disorganized, white gluey flesh, which is messy and sticky, the consistency of snot, with seeds seemingly randomly distributed around a more slightly solid, less gluey core. The fruit smells like a kiwi, and tastes vaguely like a pineapple mixed with kiwi and strawberries. The tart flavour is reminiscent of the most artificial sour apple candy you have ever tried, and produces a sweet and sour froth in the mouth as the flesh looses its consistency that gives the impression that one has just eaten one too many sour peach slices. It was a curious adventure into the world of strange fruits, and despite its almost comically offensive appearance, (which we have determined must be its international popularity handicap), it was absolutely delicious. The Soursop tastes like it should be unhealthy.

Day 3 - Shack in the jungle? Home Sweet Home.


Day 3

The incessant rooster awoke us today. Rudely.
Blue skies played host to a hot, breezy driving adventure. To find a hike to the island’s only cold sulphur spring, we traveled a road that bisects the width of the island. The Escudo ascended the steepest, tightest turns that I have ever seen a car climb. I can’t believe these paved strips up jungly mountain steeps can be called roads. The locals do not mess around. You can climb hundreds of vertical metres in a matter of a couple of switchbacks, and the roads are not wide enough for two in many places. We have been lucky not to resort to reversing in the tight places so far. We are becoming quite comfortable with our conversations with the locals, as they are becoming a common occurrence. After some searching we found the head of our first jungle trail. A local working at the trail head walked us in, dressed in tight, old cut off at the knee jeans shorts. His protruding collar bones draped in an old ripped polo shirt, open at the chest – dark skin and bleach blonde dreadlocks framing a wrinkly, scarce toothed face betraying his many years in the wilderness, along with his accompanying scent of campfire smoke. With his pack of cigarettes in one hand, an old island paper ordeal, and a bag of brown sugar small enough to carry in one hand resting on his head, he led us through the hot meadow preceding the deeper jungle sections that lined these mountainsides. At a fork in the trail he pointed at the path that led down to a ravine, and announced in his raspy island voice “Dat’s weah I leeve theh.” We looked down to see 3 skeletons of wood structures, shifting like drunk clowns on circus stilts, capped with a rusty corrugated roof held down by boulders. It was a heartbreakingly beautiful way to live. In the middle of a sun-soaked valley, between jungle steeped mountains, with nothing. After a stunning view off of the backside of the mountain into impossibly turquoise waters from 235m up, we took the car up through a mountain pass, where we visited the sulphur springs in the tolerable mountain air. Putrid sulphurous gases hissed through gravel fileds in the forest, and bubbling paradoxically cold pools surrounded us. We drove back through Portsmouth and arrived at Calibishi where we stay. After seeing several other groups arrive without luggage, Linda, the wife of Chris, informed us that it is completely normal to arrive before your luggage. We started to suspect as much. Chris told us stories over and after dinner for hours, and now we are exhausted.

Day 2. Where the F-shot is our luggage?




Day 2

Chris, the owner of the establishment, in one of the many anecdotes he told us last night talked about the myth of jungle wood. He explained that after hiring some villagers to build him a deck things took a little long. A week after he had given them the assignment they still hadn’t started. He asked them what the problem was, and the leader kindly informed him that they were waiting for the moon to finish waxing. He told Chris that by tradition, jungle wood was not to be cut before a full moon, for if it was the wood would rot in 3 weeks. If it was cut after, it would keep. He slashed some bamboo as a demonstration, and three weeks later, as per the fable, it rotted. That which he cut for the deck after the full moon was not. This morning I was awoken by the crow of a wayward rooster. Steep hills dressed in gnarly jungle trees surrounded our building and its satellite shacks. The valleys supported tall swaying palms, bows drooping luxuriously, tops teetering ominously with coconuts – especially over our rental car. Note to self. In the distance the atlantic, green and frothy, crashes into bouldery cliffs which rise into cloud shrouded mountains. Our first mission today was to retrieve our bags from the airport. Uris, chris’ ebullient pony tailed son, informed us that he had called ahead and the airport representative maintained that they’d arrived last night. Fat Chance. A daring trek (this time in daylight) to the airport, got us our much missed bags, and provided a real sense of danger as the road is only wide enough to make each confrontation with oncoming traffic a near miss. The highest speed we’ve hit so far is 65km/h. Going any faster here would make us absolute maniacs, what with the blind turns and sketchy rain gutters. After lunch we trekked to the city of Portsmouth, which harbours Ross University; a medical school that apparently boasts students from all over the world. We didn’t see the school, but we did walk through the slummy back streets, friendly natives greeting us all the while. Answers to “How’s it going?” vary from a creolization of “c’est bon” right to the Rastafarian “Ire mun”. A kind and very hungry looking local woman intercepted us and took it upon herself to guide us back to our car. We are white, and therefore we are new, lost, and have money. She did show us the collapse site of a church, and the new marquee tent which now houses the pews so that mass may still be held. It was eerie to see a grass flanked tile floor out in the open sun, surrounded by rubble. Only solid wood pews and a carved stone altar were still devoutly standing. An earthquake swept through the island 2 years ago, our guide told us. We gave her a few EC for her troubles. Our drive home was spiced with frequent stops for pictures of scenery, and gathering of wild fruits. Grapefruit, Oranges and coconuts for the picking reward the attentive eye here, and taste sweeter than storebought produce.

Day 1. We make contact



Day 1
We awoke, my parents and I, at 5:30 This morning. Outside it was -10 or less, and snow fell out of a black sky, illuminated by only our driveway lanterns. The Red Car pulled up at 6:35 and our journey had begun. After de-icing we escaped a low-visibility classic snowy Ontario morning, and flew for 4.5 hrs. The first harbinger of hot weather was the frozen de-icing solution finally melting off of the wing as we descended for our approach to Antigua. Clad in our long pants, we felt the weather follow through on the promise off oppressive heat. A promise made by the palm trees slipping past below us as we lost enough altitude to resolve the ground below us. In true Carribean spirit, we simply walked down a wheeled staircase and set foot on the breezy, humid tarmac. Entering the mock adobe building, finally feeling as a minority for once, we had to fend for ourselves to clear customs in a busy, small airport, the interior of which more closely represented a busy cafeteria than a gateway to the rest of the world, with its close, sweaty quarters and its disorganized line ups. There was, however, one major difference from a Canadian cafeteria (okay two): 1) The populace was representative of this island: over 90% African descent. 2) No-one except our family was in a hurry. After another woman accidentally walked away with my mother’s bag at customs (which was safely returned), we followed the directions of the staff’s pointing fingers across the tarmac to our waiting dash-8. The noisy turbulent flight with Carribean Star airlines took the customary half hour. Along with this came the customary landing at an airport smaller than a public library, the customary harassment from every person capable of driving a cab trying to be friends with us for a price, and not to be outdone, the customary “oops, we forgot your bags, and they won’t get here for 12 more hours, see you in the morning.” The people here are unique. They are incredibly friendly, but extremely quick to tell you when you’ve inconvenienced them. They are scathingly honest, and that is a rare quality. We were scolded by airport staff for being in the wrong place at the wrong time. As my mother attempted to calm the budget representative into giving us our car, pap and I walked (under terse advice) to the broom closet labeled “immigration” to appropriate our driving permits. The friendly Carribean lady whose job it is to administer licenses did so without much more than a look at the ones we’d brought with us. Not surprising, but still humorous given I was too young to drive a rental car here. The woman who rented us the car kindly offered to supplant the business of the other cab hustlers by driving us personally to our accommodation, for a fare equivalent to that of a cab. We seized the opportunity to get directions from a local, and so her and my mother rode in front, as pap and I followed in tow. White knuckled but laughing in our 100,000+ mi. Suzuki Escudo, with more than a comfortable delay in steering and brakes we bounced through the night. I gripped the wheel tightly for a few reasons. It was pitch black (such is life at 6:30 in equatorial regions), and the narrow road, big enough for 1.5 cars but built for two, wound through kilometers of jungle, lined by 2 + foot deep and 1 tire wide rain gutters, flanked by overhanging banana leaves waving into the lit field of view. All this compounded by the fact that I had to oversteer just to understeer in this car, and that this was my first time driving on the left hand side. Our night ended with a quiet evening at the restaurant that is part of our lodge. It is owned by a couple from Belgium who came over with their son 9 weeks ago. They, like many others, visited here once, and fell in love with the country. They flew back less than a year later and bought the place. The owner is a slight, spectacled, and trim bearded man with an excited disposition. He has a thick Belgian accent, which makes him sound like a Dutchman with a tint of Swedish. He is remarkably accommodating – the whole family is – lending us his Dominica guide book, and spent 2 hours exchanging stories with us at our dinner table. We are now settled comfortably into our hot, humid, rainstorm-prone jungly abode. Peepers in the banana trees sing us to sleep, our escudo derelict Suzuki waiting faithfully down on the road outside. Tomorrow when the sun rises, we will see what verdant landscape is obscured by the night from our balcony.